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Design for a Galley


by Ian Oughtred

Size and Proportion The basic dimensions are 54' overall length by 9' -10' beam. This is a compromise between the beamier proportion of a heavier trading vessel, which on this length might have a beam of 13 to 15 feet, and the much leaner and lower longship type hull which would have a beam of a little over 8 feet. Tending towards the latter type, as load carrying is not a requirement, but a lively and fast performance under oars is. However, a moderate but significant increase in beam is thought to be desirable, for increased stablity and sail-carrying power. She will row fast, but will be safer and more manageable under sail. Hull Shape A conventional Highland Galley as shown in the more detailed carvings: the Rodel type with short aft overhangs and upright sternpost. Basically a Viking-type hull, but with the beam carried more into the ends; plenty of fullness above the waterline and generous flare right through. These qualities give a dry, buoyant and 'floaty' hull, helping to keep the water out of a boat which is not designed or expected to sail at large angles of heel. Construction Fairly standard Shetland/Norse methods, lightly framed. Larch planking on oak framing. Stations and frames spaced 38''. Substantial backbone and gunwales. Moulds at each station with pre-determined lining-out of the planking, will be used instead of the traditional boatbuilder's method of planking up largely by eye. This way is to chance unless the builder has spent a lifetime building galleys. Until we have such experienced builders, a lot more careful design work needs to be done than the old galley builders would have wanted, in order to avoid unpleasant surprises on launching day. Sailing Rig There will be a choice to be made between the more authentic linen or flax sailcloth, with rigging of hemp, or the more practical Duradon - a sort of flaxy-looking softer terylene cloth, and Hempex, a synthetic hemp rope. Or the best of both worlds could be achieved by using a hand-stitched linen sail for display and a synthetic sail for cruising. Standing and running rigging :- standard arrangements as shown in the more detailed carvings, and proven in practise in Viking reconstructions. These, with 19C Norse examples, fill in the details of sheeting blocks, cleats etc etc. Aunthenticity A true replica galley, though highly desirable, is not feasible, owing to the lack of examples to work from. The use of appropriately primitive hand tools would be interesting and instructive, but some basic power tools will save a lot of time. Suitable trees from which to split planking in the old way are virtually unobtainable; even when this has been done the wastage factor is about 85 percent. However the aim is a hand-worked look in all details, with a traditional pine-tar, oil and turpentine finish. Ultimately to build a galley which looks convincing as a whole and in all details; which is as authentic as possible given the available resources, experience and understanding of the type. Any items of modern equipment that may be used - a log, instruments, navigation lights, safety gear - will be easily removable, so that when the vessel is on display she will look like the real thing.

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